Case 1840, 1845C Skid Steer Service Manual (incl. Wiring)

Drain the drive chain compartment (5.7 litres per side) before pulling the chain box covers. Inspect all 4 gaskets for hardening or tearing and replace the full set rather than one at a time; they're a common wear item at this age. Clean the mating surfaces of old sealant residue before fitting new gaskets, then refill each compartment to the 5.7 litre (6 U.S. quart) mark and recheck for seepage after a short run.

Shut down and let the machine cool, then pull the belly guards and clear packed debris from around the cooling fan and radiator fins by hand before using compressed air or a wash; caked mud won't blow out first pass. This is an as-required interval item, not a fixed-hours one, so make it part of every service when operating in dusty or wet ground. Check the fan belt spring tension afterward; it should hold 24 Nm at a 35 degree angle, and a loose belt will let temps climb again fast.

Check the hydraulic filter first; it's a 6 micron spin-on unit and gets blamed for pressure drop more than the pump does. Replace it if the warning lamp is lit, if a component was recently swapped, or if it's logged near 5000 hours, whichever comes first. When installing, hand-tighten only 1/2 turn past O-ring contact; never use a strap wrench, over-torquing here is what causes the next leak. Verify tank level to the 39.7 litre (10.5 U.S. gallon) system capacity before chasing the pump.

Load-test the battery at its rated 685 amperes cold cranking capacity at 0°F; anything reading well under that spec should be replaced rather than trickle-charged and reinstalled. Confirm system voltage sits around 12 volts at rest with the key off. If the battery tests good but cranking is still weak, move to the alternator: rated output is 14 volts at 65 amperes on the A187873 unit, so a no-charge condition with the engine running points there next.

Loosen the lock nuts and chain adjusting bolts until there's roughly 6 mm (1/4 inch) clearance between the adjusting bolt end and the axle housing, then move the axle housing away from the drive sprocket by tightening the bolts until the chains resist further movement. Turn each drive motor's adjusting bolt until total up-and-down deflection measures 10 to 13 mm (3/8 to 1/2 inch), matching both sides evenly so the machine doesn't pull.

Pull the suspect connector and check for corrosion or a loose crimp; a visual green or white residue on the pins is enough to condemn it. Test continuity across the harness rather than just wiggling wires, since a partial break often only opens under load or vibration. Confirm system voltage holds near 12 volts at the connector under load; a sagging reading there points to a bad ground or corroded splice further up the harness, not the component it feeds.